I have taken step by step pictures of the processes that I used to keep a record of my approach to the project. I can look at my techniques and really look at what I need to do differently in the future.
The first stage was to lay my line work down. I used a brown/black mix of paint with clove oil. This was applied with a nib and also with a very fine brush. I used the nib on the more delicate areas such as the faces and brush work on the clothing.
After the line work was laid down I then placed a matting of brown/black over the whole piece. This process is easy but the correct colour to use was not. I had many attempts at mixing a colour that I felt was appropriate. The matt was laid on heavier in some areas to add depth where I needed it.
After laying down the matt that I was happy with I then began to pick out major areas on the piece that needed to be clear again; notably the background around the trees and castle. This can be more time consuming than it seems as you really don't want to go over the line work and disturb the layers. If this happens the whole thing would need to come off and be painted again.
This picture is showing the stick work in the background and also the beginning of the highlighting. I used more stick work to highlight the lightest areas, such as down the folds of the clothing and then used a softer approach with brushes to take away the rest. This process really starts to bring the painting to life.
I apply this technique across the whole piece and I also start to introduce needle work. I take a needle or a pin and I make fine marks, scratching through the paint work as another method of highlighting.
The needle work and stick work is applied all over the piece. I always start off very lightly and then go back over again where it is needed. You learn the hard way if you go in and remove too much too soon.
Above you can see a comparison with a earlier attempt. Here you can see a rather messy finish, with too many dark areas mixed with too many light. The faces and details are far too uncertain and wary. The new version has achieved much more detail, finer lines and brush work and the highlighting is much clearer and defined.
Here you can see the roundel almost at a finished stage. The central piece has had another layer of paint applied. A lavender oil mix with a brown/black paint has been placed in areas that needed to be softened and have a extra amount of depth.
The border has also been added. The border is a Lamberts tint glass and has had several techniques applied to it. Firstly I needed to cartoon the border, this was a task I thought would be easy but turned out to be difficult due to my need to fuss! I also wanted to make this roundel appear to have just been made. My goal was to create a finish like it would have been when it was first made in the 15th century. The original has some visible paint loss.
The border has been pooled in a dark black/brown mix and has then had stick work and shading applied. The shading is a lavender oil black/brown mix and softened out with a medium badger brush.
The centre piece was then silver stained to finish it off. This is applied to the back of the glass and is placed where you want the yellow to show through. The glass that I used was an antique and unfortunately it would not take the silver stain in certain areas. I attempted several times with no luck so I am left with no stain the the central fore ground.
Hi Zoe, congrats! Really impressive and skillful work, it really captures the authentic feeling of the Flemish style. It must have taken quite a bit patience!
ReplyDeleteI’m learning glass painting at the moment, and quite inspired by this, think I might do a historic piece too! I’m really interested in your technique. It would be great if you had any tips, more info.
I was wondering... how many firings did you do, and which brown paint/ silver stain were you using?
Also, was the first matt for highlighting with paint/gum arabic, or another medium? Do you complete the lights in one session?
Apart from the needle/stick work do you scrub with any brushes too?
Cheers, looking forward to seeing more work!
Sasha
Hi Sasha! Thanks so much for the comment, its very kind of you to like my work. I did take a long time to prep for but when I got in to it a few days.
ReplyDeleteWhen I do a peice like this I try to keep the number of firings to a minimum, this to to prevent harsh lines in paint work.
On this peice I did the line work first. I used an oil mix with my paints, a Trace Black and a Bistre Brown so that I could achive a dark brown pigment. I then added the oil and was able to paint with that.
The brand of paint that I use is Reusche, which are really easy to work with and my favourite.
The Silver stain I use varies, in this case for this job used Reusche again, but the No.3. This colour can change dramaticly depending on the firing you use, I like to keep my firings in the lower tempurature's for a historical copy because you can kind of control the outcome. However I would always do multipul samples with silverstain because it does what it wants to in the kiln.
Also if you are using a float glass, it will react differntly on the tin side, usually giving you a much darker/stronger colour.
The first matt on my peice was a mixed colour again, slightley lighter than the line work, but it was with gum arabic. I always leave that to set on the glass for as long as possible. I then go in and work all the highlighting, I start off lightly and then look at the peice and go back in to where it is needed. I tend to do this all in one sitting.
The highlighting is the most time consuming part, its the fun bit and the painful bit.
The highlighting I do is with lots of diffent tools, depending on the peice. This peice was started with brushes, and I stipple the pigment away, It gives you a much softer finish.
This is the time consuming part, but for a historic copy of this time, the most effective. After I have done my brush highlighting I will then go in with needles and sticks to achive a more definate highlighted line.
I really hope this was helpful and If you have anymore questions please dont hessitate to ask. I would also love to see your painting when you start geting in to it.
Good luck and enjoy!!
Zoe
Dear Zoe, thanks very much, that’s really helpful! I’m just starting out, but I’ll definitely send you some photos of my stuff, when I get something together!
ReplyDeleteI do have a few more questions if that’s ok! Re the firing, did you fire the clove oil trace in before the first matt? And did you fire after highlighting the first matt (ie before the lavender oil layer)?
You mention leaving the gum arabic matt to set properly before highlighting - do you mean a few hours or more like several days? What is the benefit of waiting longer?
Also, you mention laying down the first matt heavier in some areas. Are you using a small applicator brush, to make some darker areas of matting? Is it thus possible to make a tonal range already in the matt (without possible firing issues from differing thicknesses)? And, btw do you stipple your matting?
I’ve been looking at some classic Flemish roundels, and trying to understand how they were made. To me it seems like they sometimes did up to 3 or more fired tonal matts. Or could some of this be backpainting/ oil-based overpainting? I’m wondering if for example they might first highlight one uniform medium tone matt, then paint a darker one over only where needed?
What do you think? Many thanks again, look forward to seeing more work! Cheers,
Sasha